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Tim Coppens Fall/Winter 2016 New York

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We live in the age of the algorithm. The logic of the algorithm is as follows: There is a formula for taste, and the trick is to uncover it. He who likes X and Y will undoubtedly be interested in Z, as well—it’s all perfectly predictable. The thing is, though, algorithms routinely fail. How many times have you been suggested a product on Amazon, based on your previous purchases, that struck you as irrelevant (or even offensive) to your taste? You should celebrate the miscalculation: Your un-scriptable humanity is laid bare in the error. We are never as easy to anticipate as we seem.

Tim Coppens’s latest collection was a tribute to human unpredictability. Coppens didn’t intend that; rather, the meaning emerged from the way he ducked and dodged the expected, usually right at the moment when you thought you’d figured out what he was up to. Like last season, this collection drew on his memories of his ’90s-era adolescence, the lazy skateboarding afternoons and post-grunge soundtrack suggested in the slack shapes of pants and the copious use of plaid. What made the collection a more compelling-than-average exercise in nostalgia, however, was its specificity—this wasn’t about anyone’s experience, coming of age in the ’90s, it was about Coppens’s, and he touched on a few themes that mattered, back then, specifically to him. The most obvious example of that was his satellite motif, deployed in prints and artful embroideries, but it was also evidenced in the Belgian lilt of Coppens’s rigorous outerwear and in touches like the dappling of a soft salmon color that was, he explained before the show, inspired by a particular shot in Dazed & Confused of Eminem.

Coppens also said before the show that he was more focused, this time out, on creating great individual pieces than on making some large conceptual point. And virtually every item here seemed closely attended to, whether via the addition of detail, like the lacing on the back of a satin bomber, or the subtraction of it, as in a perfectly pared-down olive wool coat from the capsule-sized range of womenswear. These clothes will have a productive life on the sales floor. On the runway, though, the collection as a whole came off as something less than the sum of its very good parts. Coppens’s strong point of view, and the sharp touch he brought to his best pieces, was swamped by too much layering and the inclusion of too many items, such as hoodies, that de-elevated the collection’s tone. The menswear was strong enough to escape unscathed, but Coppens is still finding his footing with the womenswear, and it required a cleaner presentation. The exception to that rule was his exemplary outerwear, where his deft tailoring shone through. Coppens has the makings of a major designer—with a little editing, his winning unpredictability will be in plain view.



Michael Bastian Fall/Winter 2016 New York

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“They discovered an area on Pluto in the shape of a heart,” said Michael Bastianduring an appointment at his West Chelsea office today, surveying his Fall collection’s mood board. “The universe was telling us something—so we just went down the road of astronomy nerds . . .”

An interstellar romantic streak mixed with an academic-but-adventurous sensibility? For Bastian, the notion succeeded, and, in its own way, it catalyzed a welcome tone-down in preppiness. Here were clothes ready-made for a weekend in the country—but for staying home and stargazing through the telescope, not for shooting clay pigeons or enjoying a South Side–soaked lunch at the club. “It’s sort of the bane of our existence . . . we’re kind of put into the bucket of, ‘Oh, they’re the preppy guys,’ ” said the designer. Hence, the adjustment.

Sweaters came in delicious cashmere weaves but with galactic intarsia motifs (hazy Pluto, contrasting constellations, a four-point star in Lurex). Bastian and his team also developed a print inspired by the cosmos-etched ceiling of New York’s Grand Central Terminal (one button-down even had it replicated in the station’s turquoise-and-gold color scheme). A hooded coat stole the show; its chunky metal hardware and Casentino pre-pilled body (“an Italian hunting fabric,” clarified Bastian) might’ve been the most streetwise thing the man has ever come up with. A close second was a slim-fit pant with a cargo pocket on the front left thigh.

It’s important to realize, though, that Bastian will never not be preppy. Prep is part of the brand’s DNA. The shapes and the cuts and the silhouettes are all relatively safe—he makes luxurious clothes for a certain type of (arguably fashion-conservative) man, the kind of guy who might also look to Brunello Cucinelli and Loro Piana in rounding out his wardrobe. Yet Bastian regularly achieves all of this with glimmers of rambunctious youth—that twinkling Lurex star being his own little way of going “out there.”


Billy Reid Fall/Winter 2016 New York

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“Ease, simplicity, comfort,” said Billy Reidin his warm, languorous Louisiana drawl about his new Fall collection. When cajoled, he went into polite detail, but really, those three words summed it up nicely.

Essentially, Reid has been carving out a stylistic niche all his own, a unique hybrid of Southern nonchalance and a more sophisticated international style. What was new this season was the degree to which he pursued that ease, simplicity, and comfort. He spoke of a purity of line that he hasn’t expressed before, achieved through pleats and drape rather than hardware or other unnecessary adornment. Pants were so baggy, deliberately, that the hems pooled around the models’ feet, while Huck Finn hats were so floppy that the models had to lift their heads to peer out from under them.

The company is still based in Alabama, and that shows no signs of changing, but Reid travels all over the world—France, Italy, Japan—in search of just the right fabrics to convey his particular brand of country grunge, if you will. That is, when he’s not developing his own fabrics from scratch, which is what he spends the bulk of his time and creative energy doing. He goes for fabrics with a high degree of texture, like soft tweed, distressed velvet, double-faced corduroy, and cashmere, mostly in subtle variations of beige, cream, and gray. He then finesses them into the natural shapes he’s after.

Also new for Reid: further expansion into womenswear. “Women’s used to account for 12 percent of our sales,” he said, slipping into business-speak. “Now it’s 30 percent.” This was reflected on the runway, with women’s taking up a sizable amount of real estate. But for now, Reid is content to put financials aside and bask in the glow of another well-received show up north.


Michael Kors Collection Fall/Winter 2016 New York

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Today’s torrential rain, out of the ordinary as it is for early February, was appropriate for Michael Kors’s men’s presentation. The designer had performancewear on his mind for Fall. He touted a “membrane-backed wool” that he used for skinny trousers, unstructured suit jackets, and actual outerwear as windproof, cooling, and virtually waterproof, too. It could’ve been a boon to editors and buyers shuttling back and forth across the city for the third day of New York’s men’s collections.

The overall vibe of the week has been fairly utilitarian so far, in contrast to the dandified look of so many European runways. Cast your eye over the shows here and you see a lot of black and even more gray. That held true for Kors, but where streetwear has dominated other collections, Kors gave his athletic silhouettes more of an Alpine spin. We thought we’d seen every riff on the puffer jacket known to woman or man, but the designer’s puffer pants looked like a genuine first to us. Otherwise, his ski pants were snug and body-conscious—the macho man’s answer to ladies’ athleisure leggings.

Ribbed cashmere sweatpants proved a welcome counterpoint to all that stretch wool. Here’s hoping that Kors considers including some in his women’s show two weeks from now.


Cadet Fall/Winter 2016 New York

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Every season, Cadet’s Raúl Arévalo and Brad Schmidt pick one wartime photograph for inspiration. This season, it was a snap taken during WWII of, straightforwardly, Morse code. “Long and short signals,” said Schmidt. “So we did a shorter jacket and a longer pant.”

The former is of the greatest interest; Cadet makes a truly killer trouser. A couple here had an athletic cuff—somewhat of a house signature—while others came in charcoal wool, with button-closure ankles that marched up to the mid-shin (the effect provided the slightest humorous relief to the show’s austere styling and moody soundtrack). A closing flight pant—matched with a coordinating trenchcoat above—boasted a cool “smoke-screen” motif on a nylon-wool blend. Said Arévalo: “The print is from radio waves carrying top-secret messages.”

Military is forever the label’s modus operandi. And the rigidity that comes with militarism is sometimes overwhelming; you want to see these clothes live, breathe, and not look as though they’re part of a roll call. Perhaps that will be achieved when they are de-coupled and worn IRL. On a high note, a ray of street savviness and approachability presented itself in Cadet’s latest collaboration: high-tops, in black-on-black or silver foil, with Greats, a Brooklyn-based footwear startup. A plus? They go on sale tomorrow.


Orley Fall/Winter 2016 New York

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Today’s Orley show was a bit of a conundrum. The aim, according to Alex Orley, who designs the young line with his brother Matthew and sister-in-law Samantha, was to “tell a story through knitwear,” utilizing as many knitwear techniques as they could. That resulted in many fine pieces, but it also made for a collection that was, essentially, about clothes qua clothes, as opposed to a collection wherein the clothes serve a larger vision of who the Orley man or woman is now.

The memorable looks, though, made the case for Orley’s potential. Chief among these were the deconstructed cable-knit sweaters, which got at the lineup’s loosely interpreted maritime theme in a fresh way. There was a distinctive attitude in those sweaters, conveyed via canny techniques that deserved to be further explored. The same could be said of the collection’s other standouts, the floral and nautilus-printed knits that managed the trick of being very pretty without being at all frothy. That was an interesting tone to strike, especially in the menswear, and it echoed in subtle touches like the bell shape given to a few crewneck sweaters.

Elsewhere, the interest was in the make of the clothes and their fine details. In the women’s line, the engineered knit pleats were especially well wrought, and the knit faux shearlings had real punch, particularly in a coat featuring an asymmetric collar and contrast trim. The menswear had less pop, but the knit tailoring, trim knit polos, and dense waffle-knit sweaters will undoubtedly have a ton of hanger appeal. The palette was also noteworthy, giving the offering as a whole a poetic expressiveness it would otherwise have lacked. Speaking after the show, Alex noted that one of the animating ideas of the Orley brand is to subtract the machismo from masculine looks, and the palette was one area of this collection where you felt that that modus operandi—a smart one—had been rigorously applied. If the designers can extend that thinking to every aspect of their work, and extrapolate it with the inventiveness they brought to bear in their fantastic unraveled fisherman’s knits, then they’ll be telling a story people can’t wait to hear.


Manuel Bolaño Fall/Winter 2016 080 Barcelona

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Custo Barcelona Fall/Winter 2016 080 Barcelona

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Catalan internationally renowned brand Custo Barcelona closed Wednesday 3 February parades of the 080 Barcelona Fashion House Palco Mar a “first look” to their collection for men and women for the Fall/Winter 2016-17.



Brain&Beast Fall/Winter 2016 080 Barcelona

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Andrea Serra by Alisson Marks

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He’s not a professional model, but he has a jaw dropped looks, masculine alpha male Andrea Serra has 107K followers on his Instagram and photographer Allison Marks couldn’t resist capture in iconic images. Thanks Allison!!!Andrea by Allison Marks (2)bAndrea by Allison Marks cHe’s not a professional model, but he has a jaw dropped looks, masculine alpha male Andrea Serra has 107K followers on his Instagram and photographer Allison Marks couldn’t resist capture in iconic images. Thanks Allison!!!Andrea by Allison MarksAndrea by Allison Marksb

He’s not a professional model, but he has a jaw dropped looks, masculine alpha male Andrea Serra has 107K followers on his Instagram and photographer Alisson Marks couldn’t resist capture in iconic images. Thanks Alisson!!!


I.C.U.

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I.C.U. 01I.C.U. overtime that comes work from Antoni d’Esterre we all going crazy.... All eyes are on Ehrard Vermaak of South Africa in this new photo series by the Hong Kong based photographer Antoni d'Esterre Darby-Dowman.I.C.U. 03I.C.U. 04I.C.U. 05I.C.U. 06

I.C.U. every time that comes work from Antoni d’Esterre we all going crazy…. All eyes are now on Ehrard Vermaak from South Africa in this new photo series by the Hong Kong based photographer Antoni d’Esterre Darby-Dowman.

– Photography: Antoni d’Esterre Darby-Dowman    

@theADDDproject

– Model: Ehrard Vermaak                      

 @ehrardv


BARBARA I GONGINI Fall/Winter 2016

MTHRFCKRS presents: Pedro Castro

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Pedro Castro by MTHRFCKRS (1)Pedro Castro by MTHRFCKRS (2)THE MTHRFCKRS presents this new young fresh face named Pedro Castro from ET Model Management.Pedro Castro by MTHRFCKRS

THE MTHRFCKRS presents this new young fresh face named Pedro Castro from ET Model Management. Insatiable face and fit body.


McQ Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2016 New York

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There was one really unexpected, outlying look in the new McQ collection: a matched set of leggings and a turtleneck in a brilliantly colored Fair Isle knit. What on earth was it doing there, amid a sea of tartan and black leather and moody burgundy cotton-wool suiting? The look turned out to be the Rosetta stone for the whole collection, as it nodded back to the season’s key reference, Phyllis Galembo’s photographs of African and Caribbean men dressed up for carnival, collected in her book Maske. Hence the wild color. The Fair Isle pattern was a tip of the hat to the Scottish roots of Lee McQueen, as were the kilt-inspired voluminous trousers and the aforementioned tartans. Galembo’s photos are worth a look, but as mood board material goes, they made for an odd fit with McQ’s updated rude boy aesthetic, which probably explains why Sarah Burton and her team dialed down Galembo’s influence to a volume just shy of a whisper. The “mask” idea was incorporated at an emotional level, as the collection explored the tension between the tough-guy face men feel compelled to show to the world and the more tender adolescent self that lurks inside, even after the teenage years are far in the past.

The sense of shielded-ness was communicated most forcefully—and with great commercial appeal—by the collection’s quilted leather outerwear. It was likewise present in the lineup’s stripes and checks, so caustic in color and so graphic that they read like bars or fences. A red-and-black striped sweater got at the tough versus tender dichotomy nicely, setting off the bar-like stripes and threat-level-imminent red with a gesture of vulnerability, elongated sleeves that fell over the hands. Elsewhere, there was a similar emotional resonance in the revelation that seemingly hard denim was actually jersey printed to look like distressed jeans.

Still, the best looks here were the ones that continued to evolve the silhouette that’s emerged as a McQ signature: The kilt-inspired trousers, as full and fluid as skirts, were carried over from last season, and also adapted, in somewhat more circumspect form, into pairs of relaxed cropped pants. It’ll be a while before any bankers turn up to their Wall Street offices in a burgundy McQ suit featuring those kilt trousers, but they insist upon the silhouette so convincingly, that day may come sooner than any of us suppose. And why not? Surely, tender hearts beat inside the breasts of would-be Masters of the Universe, too.


Siki Im Fall/Winter 2016 New York

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Siki Im is a vampire lover.

The darkness is not new to him as he has gained a reputation of channeling goth influences, but this time, he has completely crossed over.

The color palette of black, burgundy and deep purple helped set the tone that was reinforced by dramatic dripping face painting and other makeup tricks.

The drama continued with flowy capelike coats, dropped crotch pants and hooded shearlings.

The play in proportions in elongated bomber jackets and ultrabaggy leather pants kept the collection close to the street.

Among the highlights was a textured cashmere jacquard blazer worn over an extended white shirt with leather insets — a look that spoke to his tailoring abilities.

The closer Im moves to darkness, the brighter his star shines.



Theory Fall/Winter 2016 New York

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Theory is hoping to offer a practical solution to today’s modern man. The original Andrew Rosen concept of the sleek uniform for the city-centric guy was revisited with the addition of some luxury fabrics, such as double-face cashmere in softly constructed topcoats and fine leathers in biker jackets.

The fabric development was seen in a suit in washable wool, wrinkle-free nylons from the cycling world used in pants and jackets, and a cotton-nylon trench with snap closures.

The modern man is definitely looking for solutions when it comes to his wardrobe and this lineup provided that. But it could have used more of a fashion infusion.


Todd Snyder Fall/Winter 2016 New York

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As the closing act at New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Todd Snyder wanted to make a statement.

So he walked 48 looks down the runway, his largest show to date, in an impressive lineup that blended traditional tailoring with functional utility outerwear, and a healthy dose of sweaters and shearlings.

“I wanted to put a stake in the ground,” he said. “I want to be the next great American designer.”

A lofty goal, but with the recent $11 million cash infusion from new owner, American Eagle Outfitters, Snyder has new funding that could help take his business to the next level.

Among the highlights was a bright orange parka paired with a gray sweatshirt and sweatpants. The coat was inspired by a Forties Mount Everest expedition, but modernized with today’s technical fabrics. “It’s a mix of modernism and naturalism,” he said.

The technical fabrics also appeared in raglan sleeve trench coats and quilted cropped jackets.

Another big theme was a deep military exploration that Snyder explored through a collaboration with the U.K. brand Private White VC. It was best reflected in trenchcoats, fishtail hooded parkas and textured olive green turtlenecks.

The use of camel in topcoats and suits elevated the offering as did the assortment of velvet tuxedos in midnight blues and heather gray.

Snyder’s mix of elegant tailoring, military references and utilitarian touches hit all the week’s, and season’s, trends.


ROCHAMBEAU Fall/Winter 2016 New York

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Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016 Rochambeau RTW Fall 2016

The Rochambeau fall collection took inspiration from the Nineties. Filled with oversize outerwear in epic proportions, designers Laurence Chandler and Joshua Cooper offered military ponchos, varsity fleeces and puffer vests with wide-leg shorts paired with socks and Nike Air Force One sneakers.

Fortunately the brand shied away from its previous gloomy goth pieces and rejoiced in rich and vibrant colors of cream, navy, orange and brown. Blends of corduroy, nylon with velour tied into the retro theme.

“We felt the layering and bigger fits from the film ‘Juice’ featuring Tupac Shakur was the story we wanted to tell,” Chandler said.

Highlights included a hooded orange anorak with an embellished elbow patch, and an elongated turtleneck paired with a front patch pullover that exemplified the oversize layered effect.

While its roots in streetwear remain evident, Rochambeau continues to elevate its offering by adding a new dimension and modernizing the trends of the past with modern fabrics.


Timo Weiland Fall/Winter 2016 New York

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Timo Weiland Men's RTW Fall 2016 Timo Weiland Men's RTW Fall 2016 Timo Weiland Men's RTW Fall 2016 Timo Weiland Men's RTW Fall 2016 Timo Weiland Men's RTW Fall 2016 Timo Weiland Men's RTW Fall 2016 Timo Weiland Men's RTW Fall 2016 Timo Weiland Men's RTW Fall 2016 Timo Weiland Men's RTW Fall 2016 Timo Weiland Men's RTW Fall 2016 Timo Weiland Men's RTW Fall 2016 Timo Weiland Men's RTW Fall 2016 Timo Weiland Men's RTW Fall 2016 Timo Weiland Men's RTW Fall 2016 Timo Weiland Men's RTW Fall 2016 Timo Weiland Men's RTW Fall 2016 Timo Weiland Men's RTW Fall 2016

One can trust the team at Timo Weiland (Donna Kang, Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein) to make cool clothes for a creative class of consumers, but this season they raised the bar.

Backstage before the show, Eckstein cited the brand’s usual points of reference — New York City and music from the Sixties — but emphasized a turn to more tailored pieces. Wide leg and narrow trousers were styled with matching blazers, which were worn over zip-up sweaters with chevron. Bomber jackets came in a gingham velvet and wool tweed. A European influence was felt with the playful berets and woven T-shirts. These pieces came in an energizing color palette — mashed-up cherry red with maroon and cobalt with kelly green.

What really elevated the line was the outerwear, which ranged from a plaid peacoat, which closed the show, to a wool car coat.

Similar to the men’s offering, the women’s looks were more refined than usual, with fluid wide-leg pants, tailored coats and a wrap skirt worn as a top.

It was a concise, grown-up collection for the brand and a welcome move forward.


Parke & Ronen Fall/Winter 2016 New York

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PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (1)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFWPARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (2)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (3)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (4)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (5)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (6)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (7)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (8)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (9)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (10)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (11)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (12)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (13)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (14)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (15)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (16)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (17)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (18)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (19)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (20)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (21)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (22)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (23)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (24)PARKE &amp; RONEN FW 2016 NYFW (25)The collection is cozy, relaxed, and effortlessly sexy for the man who seeks his thrills atop snowy desert peaks and unwinds with a hot toddy at the lodge. Bundled up in knits and cloaked in luxe fur blankets, Parke & Ronen take a modern approach to traditional Southwestern styles and motifs. But the infamous swimwear designers aren’t shying away from their roots. Parke & Ronen unveiled a capsule group of swimwear for FW16. The suits are the brand’s signature and popular silhouettes including a bikini brief and two tailored trunks… because whether you’re skiing in New Mexico or sunbathing in Miami, it’s always jacuzzi season somewhere.


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